Many popular routes lead up Mt. Esja, and thousands of hikers meander their way to the top every year. Numerous trails have already been made, and many others are awaiting construc-tion. A great number of people have taken part in developing these trails, including The Iceland Tourist Association, which organises hiking trips up Mt. Esja, as well as the Icelandic Forest Service, Friends of Esja, and others. The SPRON Savings Bank has financially supported construction and development of the area.

The Name

The farm Esjuberg in nearby Kjalarnes is mentioned several times in the Book of Settlements, but there is no explanation of the name. Örlygur Hrappsson, who arrived from Suðureyjur, lived there.

In the Saga of Kjalarnes, a story is told of Irish men who came by ship to Leiruvogur in Kollafjörður. Among them was a woman named Esja, a wealthy widow. She moved into the farm at Esjuberg. The mountain is not named here.
Because of this story, there is speculation (W. Craigie) that the name Esja is of Celtic origins, drawn from Ésa or Essa (see Hermann Pálsson: Keltar á Íslandi. Reykjavík 1996:170).

Most reject this possibility, believing that the female name evolved after the name of the farm and mountain. Helgi Guðmundsson (Um haf innan 1997:193-94) has pointed out that in Lewis (Ljóðhúsum) in Suðureyjur are archived Norse place-names in Gaelic that are consistent with a series of place-names from the town of Akranes south to Kollafjörður. Among them is the name Mt. Esja. It is possible that the place-names were con-ceived at the same time in both places and taken with Norsemen on their travels west.

The most probable explanation for the name Esja is that it is Norse. Ásgeir Blöndal Magnússon (Íslensk orðsifjabók 1989:157) points out that in earlier language the word esja existed meaning “pantile, alabaster.” In Norwegian, esje has the same meaning. Ásgeir Blöndal believes that the original meaning of the word esja in Icelandic means “hearth,” and the stones refer to the building materials. The name of the mountain would then be of the same origin.

Walking trails on Mt. Esja

Stígurinn á Þverfellshorn is the main walking trail in the area, going from the parking lot to the viewing dial on Þverfellshorn about 720 m above sea level. The trail will be improved and suitable for the entire family. Þverfellsstígur trail links with other routes of varying difficulty, which increases the area’s variety. The total length of the Þverfellshorn route to and from the parking lot is 8 km.

Langihryggur. The circle route along the lower part of Mt. Esja, which runs along Langihryggur ridge and links with Þverfellsleið route under the cliffs at Þverfellshorn. It is recom-mended that a viewing dial be placed at the end of the ridge where there is an excellent view over Kjalarnes and Greater Reykjavík. The route can be used for much of the year, including the period when the way up Þverfellshorn is impassable. Two different routes can be chosen from/to the parking lot: around Fögrudalur that connects with the Þverfellsleið route just below the Iceland Tourist Association’s footbridge over Mógilsá river, or around Skarðdalur to Djúpagil and down to birkikjarrið. The routes are of similar dist¬ance. The total distance of the Þverfellsleið route to and from the parking lot is about 7.0 km.
Rauðhólsleið is a circle route that runs along the Iceland Forest Service’s walking trails, connecting the Þverfellsleið route with Rauðhóll. Part of the trail covers the old driving paths. The total distance to and from the parking lot along the Þverfellsleið route is about 7.0 km.

Gunnlaugsskarð - Þverfellshorn. A circle route along the upper sides and plateau of Mt. Esja. This route is for experienced hikers. It is necessary to determine whether the route should be marked with stakes or cairns. The route runs from Rauðhólsleið down Gunnlaugsskarð and Þverfellsleið to the viewing dial at Þverfellshorn. The total distance to and from then parking lot is about 11 km.

Kögunarhólsleið is a shorter circle route that runs through the Forest Service’s trail system and links Þverfellsleið at Kögunarhóll. The total distance to and from the parking lot is about 3.5 km.

Nípa. The walk begins at the new parking lot by Kringlumýri and goes along Kollafjarðará river up to Nípa (Gnípa) where there is a good view. From there, one can travel the Rauðhólsleið route along Hvítárbotn, or continue up the river into Gunnlaugskarð. Then one walks down to the forestation area and along Grjótbrún and Laugarbrekkur back to the parking lot. The total distance is about 5.2 km.

Gunnlaugsskarð. This is the same route up Kollafjarðará river as in the Nípa walk. From there the route goes up the river to Gunnlaugsskarð. It is possible to take the same route down and from there choose one of the many routes down the mountain, or walk Þverfellsbrún rim and down Þverfellshorn. The total dis-tance of the Grunnlaugsskarð route to and from the parking lot is about 7.5 km.

Langimelur. This route lies along the area that was the setting for the Saga of Kjalarnes. The walk can begin at the service centre, past the forestation area and up to Grjótbrún. From there the route runs along the banks of Laugarbrekka and past Kollsgil. Over the new bridge over Kollafjarðará river to Langamel. From there north to Kollafjarðarréttur and then down to Arnarhóll where Örn the Easterner was killed and down to Kollafjarðareyrar. Then alongside the fish-farming ponds to the service centre. Total dis-tance about 4.0 km.

Walking routes on Mt. Esja have been divided according to colour in the Touring Association’s Hiking Map.

1. 1. Blue route runs first west of Mógilsár river, and then over the footbridge at Kögunarhóll and then along the trail to Þverfellshorn. In the ravine below the bridge is a limestone mine, which was worked at the turn of the 20th century. Show caution when walking near the cliffs on Þverfellshorn, where there is an Iceland Tourist Association viewing dial and guest book. This is the easiest route to Þverfellshorn.
2. 2. Red route heads off the blue route in the direction of the mountain after reaching Kögunarhóll, and goes up to the rim of Mt. Esja east of a prominent palagonite cliff to the mountaintop. Then west alongside the rim to the viewing dial at Þverfellshorn. An easy route that, however, requires caution.
3. 3. Green route runs along the lower sides of Mt. Esja and links with other routes. It is possible to walk a circle-route on this route, with a stop at Kögunarhóll. A route for the young and old.
4. 4. White route runs west of Mógilsá river and up Þverfellshorn. It goes around steep scree and over Einarsmýri moor. From there the route follows the blue route to Þverfellshorn.
   

Note. Take full precautions when mountain hiking. Be well outfitted and remember that mountain weather can change dramatically in a very short time. During winter, snow overhangs can form and should be avoided. When hiking on Þverfellshorn, the blue route is recommended to protect Einarsmýri moor from being trampled.

Other hiking routes up Mt. Esja:

There are many other routes on and around Mt Esja. Here are a few.

1. Kerhólakambur. The route first runs east of Esjuberg up a steep, rocky slope and then up a glacis between two ravines named Bolagil and Hestagil. The last part of the route is somewhat steep along the western rim of Kerhólakambur. It is possible to leave Kerhólakambur and descend along the western rim of Mt. Esja to Ártúnsá river at the mouth of Blikdalur, or continue onto other walking routes, for example Þverfellshorn.
2. Hátindur. A good route to Hátindur runs from Hrafnhólum around Þverárkotshál where it is possible to follow the ridge all the way up. Another route is from Grafardalur and up the so-called Kattarhryggur; it is ideal to take one route up and the other one down. From Hátindur, a good route is walking across the moun-tain to Skálatindur and down between Eilífsdalur and Flekkudalur to Hjarðarholt.
3. Esja lengthwise. It is possible to take a longer walk on Mt. Esja, for example lengthwise by walking from Hrafnhólar up to Móskarðshnúkur and over to Esja along a narrow ridge connecting the mountains. Then one can continue to Hátindur, Hábunga (Esja’s highest point), to Kerhólakambur and then down to Ártúnsá river. It is possible to begin this route and then move to another route, for example up Gunnlaugsskarð west of Kistufell, which was once a common route on Mt. Esja, and from there to Hábunga.

Forestation at Mógilsá

Mógilsá was a farmstead purchased by the State in 1961 for the purpose of building a forestry research centre. It formally opened on 15 August 1967. The Norwegian people gave Icelanders money to build the centre. Mógilsá was at the time treeless, but since then the environment has changed dramatically despite difficult growing conditions. Take a walk into the forestation area and enjoy the diversity: over 100 species of trees are growing, as well as a variety of vegetation.