Last Saturday, the annual trail run called The Puffin Run took place in Westman Islands. The race has become increasingly popular every year since it started in 2018. Tickets for this year’s race went on sale in November and it was sold out within two days. The organizers added 200 tickets to meet demand but they went like hot cakes too.

Many people consider The Puffin Run to be the most fun race in Iceland and reasons I have heard are the scenery and route as the number one reason and secondly, the atmosphere around it, hospitality in Westman Islands and the organization of the event. 

This was my second time in Puffin Run and it has become my favourite race in Iceland. 

• See also: Running in Iceland: A Simple Guide

What Is The Puffin Run?

The Puffin Run is a 20 km trail run around the beautiful Heimaey (the biggest island of Westman Islands). They also have a category for relay races, 2×10 km and 4×5 km. The run starts and ends at the town’s harbour, Nausthamarsbryggja, next to the ferry dock. 

The name “Puffin Run” is based on the fact that Westman Islands have the largest puffin colony in the world and the timing of the race is set to align with the time when the puffin has arrived on the island to make nests in the cliffs. 

The Route

The route is around Heimaey and can be seen on the map below. The first part is from the harbour up towards the cliff where local kids (and sometimes adults) jump holding a rope (“spranga” in Icelandic), prance is probably the English term that comes closest to describe it. From there, it turns up towards the golf course and then into the valley Herjólfsdalur (where Iceland’s biggest camping festival is held at the beginning of August each year).

After running out of Herjólfsdalur, participants run for a while alongside the golf course before heading down to a sandy beach. The terrains are varied, from the paved road in the beginning to grass in the valley, then sand, rocks and pumice stone when you reach the lava field. The ocean views and small islands in the ocean are visible for large parts of the route.

The biggest elevation comes around Stórhöfði (e. Great Cape) around the halfway mark of the route on the South of the island. It is 122 meters high and known to be one of the windiest places in Iceland. It also rains on average 129 mm per month, which is a lot compared to most parts of the country. On average it has only four days a year with still air. But averages never tell the whole story and the Puffin Run has been held in sunny and calm conditions for the past three years at least.

After coming down from Stórhöfði, you will pass by the airport and go on a gradual elevation again. When you are about to finish the route comes the most difficult part, which is through the lava field with narrow paths, sharp rocks, steep hills and sharp turns up and down. When you finally reach the town again, you pass by the picturesque black stave church in Skansinn before heading down to the harbour again for the finish line.

One of the participants recorded a 360 degrees video of the run and you can see the short version below and the long version here. 

First Impression and Second Impression

My first time in The Puffin Run was last year and that also happened to be my first ever trail run. At the time, I was so busy with work that I considered cancelling my trip to Westman Islands, but fortunately I didn’t. However, I was absent minded when I arrived and somehow thought that the race was 10 km long. After running the first 5 km, I was already tired but thought “Okay, at least I’m halfway there now, I must be able to make it to the finish line” I was wrong of course because it’s a 20 km distance around the island. To my despair, I gradually realized that my “halfway” was only 25% and was following the route further away from town and the finish line by the harbor.

When I thought I should be about to finish the race around the 10 km mark, I just saw Great Cape, gaping over me like a giant and had to climb, crawl or jog up the hill. In the memory it is getting a bit blurry but somehow I dragged myself over Great Cape, then over the lava field and finally across the finish line at the harbor. My goal before that run had just been to finish so I was happy enough to have done that. I think a part of the misunderstanding regarding the distance last year came from the name of the race, since puffins are small and cute birds, I imagined this would be an easy run, more like a sightseeing run for tourists than a challenging trail run.

The second time in the Puffin Run was much easier and it made a big difference to be aware of the distance from the beginning this time around. That is not to say that it was easy, the varying terrain and differences in elevation make sure that the run is challenging enough. Long story short, I improved my record from last year by 23 minutes. Another observation I made was that Great Cape looked much smaller than last year but probably it has not shrunk and the observation is just based on my mindset and fatigue levels when reaching it.

Westman Islands

Westman Islands are among the most beautiful places in Iceland but of course not as accessible as other places that are connected to Iceland’s main road. The main method to travel between the islands and the mainland is the ferry Herjólfur, that takes around 40 minutes to reach the island from the harbour of Landeyjahöfn in South Iceland. Driving to Landeyjahöfn from Reykjavík takes around two hours. Below are some of the highlights of Westman Islands:

Eldheimar

Eldheimar is an interactive museum about the Heimaey volcanic eruption in 1973, which was among the biggest natural disasters in the history of Iceland. Visitors get a glimpse into the lives of islanders before the eruption and after, an event that marked their lives forever. They had to leave their homes in the middle of the night and evacuate the island.

Eldfell

Eldfell is the volcano that erupted in 1973 in Heimaey in the early morning hours of 23 January, lasting until 3 July that year. The damage was significant with nearly a third of homes and buildings burned or covered in lava and ash. After the eruption, the landscape had changed drastically. For several years, heat from the lava was used to heat up the homes in town.

The track towards Eldfell is easily accessible from town and the views are great from the top.

Stórhöfði

Stórhöfði (e. Great Cape) is the southernmost point on the island and has cliffs where puffins nest. It is an easy hike and starts in Klauf, where you walk uphill to the west towards the bird watching house. It has rich birdlife and exceptional views of the island and nearby islands.

Heimaklettur

Heimaklettur is right next to the town and the highest mountain on the island, 283 meters above sea level. The hike up there is difficult with steep slopes and not the best option for people who are afraid of heights. The weather forecast should be considered before heading up to Heimaklettur.

Skansinn and the Stave Church

Skansinn is easy to reach from the city centre as it is almost right next to it and the harbour. The fortress at Skansinn was built in 1586 by request of the Danish king. After the 1627 Turkish abduction, they rebuilt Skansinn to defend the island against further invasions.

We made a quick guide to the Westman Islands last year, where you can learn more, including where to eat and drink. It is one of the most beautiful places in Iceland and well worth visiting and staying at least two or three nights there to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, natural beauty and hospitality of the locals.

Tickets and More Info

The next Puffin Run will take place in Westman Islands on 2 May 2026. Tickets will be sold from 26 November. If you are interested, mark the date into your calendar and act quickly when the day comes because it will surely be sold out fast again.